Sunday, 17 January 2010

Back in Lima

Well I am back in Peru and remembering its funny ways. The journey was uneventful except for some extreme turbulence which unnerved me somewhat. I was to have been collected from th airport by my friend Stuart but emails went astray and in the end I selected the most reliable oldest taxista from the Green Taxi company. I chose him partly to annoy one of his colleagues who was shadowing my every move in the hope of a fare.

My stay in Lima was hugely enhanced by my hotel which was a real cultural treat. The house of Victor Delfin, artist of Peru is a hotel, gallery and his studio. Almost 100 years old its architecture defies classification but maybe owes something to the combined influences of Tudor, Bauhaus and Swiss country cottage. The house is situated in the so called bohemian district of Barranco, just outside Lima and it looks out on the Paciffic.

Lilian, Victor's daughter is a petite 40 something with military precision in the B and B arrangements, a quality probably inherited from her father whose studio is orderly and not stereotypically arty. A huge brightly lit cross over at Chorillo to the South dominates the night sky and and reflects off the water.

The house is huge with 3 large double bedrooms for guests – these cost considerably more than the £40 per night that I paid for the only en suite single room. Breakfasts are a friendly affair with all guests sharing the same table.

On entering the garden you are greeted by 2 large friendly dogs Zeus and Diana, but most of all treated to a continual revealing of Victor's considerable body of work and talent. This is in the form of sculptures, paintings, artifacts and even windows and door furniture which have been artistically interpreted.

Aside from the hotel i enjoyed a great meal with Stuart and his Peruvian wife Anette, did some research on Cajamarca at South American Explorers and enjoyed some walks along the beach and into Chorillas a nearby busy town about which people warned me that it was unsafe but on visiting seemed much the same as any other Peruvian commercial centre. I also explored Barranco and found a friendly bar and hit a few museums.

So, a good 3 days and then I took a super luxury night bus to Chiclayo where I was to meet Ana and her sister, friend from lst year's visit to Piura. Overall a good start to the trip.

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