By now I have had ample opportunity to
think about my life getting around Medellin so here are a few
observations.
Roads: Generally in the city
they are in fair but not great condition. There are a few pot holes
and lumps and bumps and not a great deal of evidence of repair.
Further out of the city the main routes, for example towards Bogota and
to the airport are quite smooth and can be safely descended by cycle
at speeds of around 40mph. Sometimes lanes are divided by silly
plastic posts, mainly on bends, presumably to stop drivers dodging
back and forth in the lanes – these can appear without warning if
you are overtaking a large vehicle – beware! Secondary roads around
Medellin can occasionally give way to sections of compacted mud or
sometimes the heavy rains dislodge a large pile of mud blocking the
road, and in one case that I saw causing an accident. Marks 7/10
Traffic controls: There could
easily be a saving in the cost of white paint by
eliminating pedestrian crossings – traffic takes no notice of them
and as a pedestrian you may as well ignore them! Traffic lights are
generally but not always observed. The green to red ratio is
substantially in favour of traffic rather than pedestrians and the somewhat
random phasing can leave you stranded on narrow central reservations
whilst traffic flies by within inches. Also, pedestrians are rarely
protected from traffic turning into a road even though it is being
crossed with the benefit of a green man light - so peripheral
vision, twitchy eyes and the ability to dodge and sprint are a must
for safe crossing. On some roads, for example Las Palmas towards the
airport police stand watching at roughly 2 kilometre intervals and
cars therefore exercise reasonable restraint. Marks 6/10
Quality of driving: Take nothing
for granted, cars generally fail to indicate, they lane hop
incessantly, motor bikes, of which there are many, dash in and out
of cars. Cars forking right will cut across slower traffic,
particularly cyclists and one needs to actively signal intentions to
stay in a lane – this is probably the most dangerous aspect for
cyclists. It isn't all bad – although there is some impatient
tooting of horns some drivers do give way to cyclists; few if any are
aggressive and in several weeks I have been here I have only seen a
couple of occasions where words were exchanged. Marks 6.5/10
Public Transport: There has been
a heavy investment in infrastructure and there is clear connection
drawn between the quality of life and improvements in safe journeys.
The Metro is the central plank of this. There is one main line
running North/South and a shorter cross line with a coupe of cable
cars that head up into the barrios. It is safe, clean and efficient –
people don't eat, drink or litter in the trains and there are helpful
announcements at stations even extolling passengers to give up seats
to travellers who seem fatigued and advising of the social and health
benefits of using a handkerchief. It is more or less fully wheel
chair accessible and it is well used by most people but not
noticeably by the better off.
Metro Map |
Metrocable to Santo Domingo |
Metro |
Metroplus is also good and being
further developed – these are bendy buses travelling in mainly in
dedicated lanes and stopping at special stations with music playing,
CTV systems and sliding doors.
MetroPlus Station |
To be honest the rest of the bus
system is a bit shaky – it comprises of several private lines and
it is difficult to determine where buses are going – it isn't just
me, locals are also confused but there is a web site which shows
routes and can be helpful. Interactive Bus Map Most buses stop running around 9 pm but
start pretty early. Fares are cheap, around £0.75 and there is a
civic card that can be loaded at stations and used on the metro and
metroplus. Also some fares are integrated between trains and buses,
for example to outlying towns reached via hub stations. There are
also large 2 bus terminals, North and South for longer journeys where you can find
buses to most destinations near and far. Sometimes there are taxi
colectivos, again at reasonable prices. I have been to the North
terminal and it is very good and well organised and seemingly well
policed and safe. Marks 8.5/10
Taxis: There is an over supply
of yellow cabs and many wait a long time for a passenger. They have
meters and are relatively cheap – a 10– 5 minute ride may cost
around £3. I like them. Most of the drivers are nice and helpful –
you are not expected to tip but I do and they are always very
grateful – a couple of my drivers have seemed a bit coked up but I have fairly
high confidence in most of them. Generally there are no seat belts in the rear
and it is advisable to lock your door, keep valuables out of sight
and wind your window most of the way up. You can also get your hotel or hostel/bar etc. to call a cab in which case you will each have a code number to exchange so as to enhance security. Marks 8/10
Cycling: People
here cycle for sport and as an economical form of transport although there are
far fewer bikes than motorbikes. There are some helpful cycle paths
but they tend to be used by pedestrians and aren't always well
signposted. Large drain covers, of which there are many have widely
spaced bars and need to be avoided.
Cycling Hazard |
On Sundays and holidays the Ciclovea is opened and there are 2 lanes and about 15 miles of fairly
uninterrupted cycling but beware of erratic children on BMXs and
skaters who also share this space. Otherwise at weekends sports
cyclist head out of town in their droves both for mountain and road
cycling. Leaving the city mostly necessitates a steep and long climb
but the route towards Barbosa is mostly downhill and towards Caldas
the hill is gradual but then steep.
Road towards Barbosa |
There is a dedicated and free
criterium circuit of 0.9 of a mile and a cool outdoor velodrome –
both of which you are free to enter if there are no events. If like
me you are a keen cyclist, Medellin's surrounds rather than the city
itself are a major cycling attraction and you can easily hook up with
local groups – I have been adopted by club Mariela and I love it.
Marks 9/10
Velodrome |
Not an exhaustive
resume but hopefully helpful – feel free to get in touch if you
need more cycling specific information.
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